Week 9 (Tajikistan & Kyrgystan)

17/8

... rose a 5.15. Helped Jill and Aussie Allison preparing breakfast, Packed and the 3rd day of dangerious truck driving is about to start. Laterz...

And then.. after a 200 meter drive (no kidding) there was a check post... and it wouldn't open before noon. And i rose at 5 something... Let down!

10.45 ... waiting ... grrr.
13.40 see 10.45 .. more grrr (Bridge needs to be repaired).

14.30 we were off finally. The usual long bumpy drive further towards the Pamir highway, which we did not reach again that day. 55 KM before Khorag, the city where the highway begins, we had a cold bush camp.


18/8

Rose 5.45, normal routine (breakfast and find a decent place to err... "download"). Funny thing is that 2 months ago nobody knew eachother while now you advise eachother about the good places to take a dump. Lol.
Anyway, on the road. After a few miles we found a good source to refill the watertanks. Meanwhile we acqaintanced with the locals, Friendly people as always in these countries. We managed to leave  our garbadge there as well (and i spoiled some of that messy stuff on my clothes (clean clothes now, coz the smell is unbarable). Updating blog now... Looking for a good supermarket to do some shopping for 4 cookgroups, coz we will be out of the civilized world for at least 4 days. Tim and I cook the last day (spaghetti).

Shopping in Korang was done quicky. Strolled around the city for one more hour to do some personal shoppong (i.e water, bread, cheese and beer).

The drive in the afternoon was bumpy of course. The scenery stunning as usual.

Bushcamped at a wet spot. It was cold. 7 degrees celcius.


19/8

A bad night of sleep. My sleeping bag is not cold proof enough, so woke up like every hour. Feel ok though. See if i hang in during the day. Laterz.

10.45 Stuck, like really stuck. No possible way to continue and so... back to  Korang... grr. No other option left though. So, 3 days up and down the Wahkan valley, to reach the Pamir highway, all for nothing (except for the great drives and the stunning views.. let's not forget that).

14.30 luchbreak in a small village. Not for me, i already eat some bread and cheese on the truck. Everybody seems a bit depressed. Don't know why... perhaps of the "return to Korang"-thing? Well, let's see..

Arrived in Kohrag at 7. Found a nice lodge, where we slept. Also met James (USA) again, who hitched with us a couple of days ago. Nice to meet up with him again. Managed to put a small message on FB, through James' tablet.


20/8

Woke up at 6, showered, shaved, had a great breakfast with fried eggs and all, so... ready to do the whole Pamir highway, which will take us untill midnight we reckon. Well prepared though.
We have to leave Tajikistan on the 21st, so... KM's to do. Laterz.

15.40 went over a 4.2 km pass. The view was stunning as expected.

Saw some mountain marmots too. They're too cute (Picture thanks to David Ford).

Had dinner at 4.x KM altitude, coz we want to go on driving till midnight and just have a snack round 7 pm or so.

Drove on to 20.30 and then bush camped in the desert-ish environment at high altitude. Putting up tents in the dark went fine, got a quick meal, enough to get you through the night. Cold it was though. Temperature dropped close to zero. The midnight pee wasn't pleasant. Slept ok though. Put my jacket on after 3 AM.


21/8

Rose at 5.30, good breakfast (beans and eggs on toast; love it). 6.45 on the road again. On our way to the border. Hope to enter Kyrgystan round noon. Laterz.

Saw lots of mountain moarmots again and some jaks too.

Reached the border with Kyrgystan round 13.00, where we are waiting now.
Crossed it in 30 minutes. Then an 30 minutes trip through nomens land. Now waiting to enter Kyrgystan... and waiting...

Entered Kyrgystan at 16.00 or so. Picked up 3 Kazagstan hitchres, who stay with us untill Osh. Roads are good. Found a beautifull bush camp lot near a river. Nice diner and (finally) played guitar with James again. We almost completed the complex Radio Head song (Paranoid Android). Good night sleep, though still a bit chilly.


22/8

Woke up far too early (1 hour later here), prepared breakfast, checked to vegetables we need for cooking tonight... completely rotten (we left them in the plastic bags.. rather stupid actually).
On our way to Osh now. Spend a few ours there to re-shop and hopefully do some internet, coz it will be unavailable again for a while after Osh. Laterz.

Long drive in the afternoon. Found a great spot to bush camp, including swim facilities, which i could not use, since Tim and I were cooking.
Spaghetti was ok, but it was 21.00h before we were ready. Shared a cold beer with Tony and learned a new Pink Floyd song with James. Slept like a log.


23/8

Happy birthdayto me. Breakfast ready in 20 minutes. On our way now. Sorry, have to stop... running out of batteries on my laptop. Laterz.
Long drive on the truck through the mountains of Kyrgystan. Strange country. They burry their deceased in graves, that have minitiature cathedrals on them.

The large planes between the mountains remind me of Mongolia. Nomad-like lifestyle:

Got a very good cold bottle of Tjech beer for my birthday. Thanks Will and Ally! Drank it on the truck. Bush camped on a high plane. Not too cold though. Played another song of Pink Floyd's album "Dark side of the moon". James and I almost play the whole album now.

Week 8 (Tajikistan)

10/8

Rose at 6.15, breakfast too early, updated blog. Laterz.
Took us 3 hours to cross the border to Tajikistan. Had to get a second stamp, since i had a multi-entry visa (seriously!). On the road to Istaravshan. Just had lunch and bought some beers (5 sominos each (1 US$)). About to go on the road again. Laterz.
Istaravshan was not that spectecular, but again: people are very friendly and extremely curious. Everytime we enter in city this is what you see:

Spend an hour there. Then up to the mountains for a bushcamp. Slept lousy on the rocky ground, since my air mat is flat.


11/8

Rose at 6.45, end of diahrea (yeee), breakfast, and on the road again for two more bush camps at a lake at high altitude, so... cold, but no mozzies. Laterz.

12.30, we're stuck and need to get rid of a few stones, to have our truck pass the small bending of this mountain road.

Need i say more? I only know one rock formation, that's more impressive and that's Led Zeppelin ;-)
On the way again now though.
Arrived at the lake early (15.00 our so). Put up our tents and the relaxation begun. Very cold water to swim in though, but still. Good cooling for the beers too. At 5.30 Tim and I started cooking and at 7 everybody had their dinner. At 8 we were done.
Had a great campfire, with lots of music, new Turkmenistan friends from then on to 11.15 pm. Then somebody started shouting that it had to be over with. We already had decided that, but still a bit of a let down after such an nice evening.


12/8

My stomac is a little upset, so... to the toilet at 8 pm yesterday, 4am and 9.30 am again. Hope it's over now.

Slept in till 8.45 and when i went to the truck Tim and Dave had done most of the breakfast. Thanks guys, highly appreciated. Now... do a little walking with Tony this afternoon and relax the rest of the day. Yes!
Just said goodbey to the Titjikistan guys we met at the campfire last night. They are going hiking to the 7 lakes, a few km's from here. Have fun guys. Great and very hospitable people.

Spend the rest of the morning sleeping, reading. Went for a walk to the waterfalls in the afternoon. Took me 3 hours, but it was very nice.

<Ozzie Allison's pic to add>

Had a great dinner, made by Dennis and Corine. (tried to ) play a complex Radio Head song with James. It's hard, but it's a great song.
Campfire with a beer to finalize the day. Good night sleep.


13/8

Rose at 6.40. Breakfast and on the road again. We have 3 hitch hikers with us. One is Erich (Germany), don't know the other two. Laterz.
Drive went well, untill ... construction work on the (4 km long) tunnel, so.. we're waiting... and went on waiting untill 14.00h. Then a drive through a 4 km long tunnel, which was under construction. Scarey drive.
17.00h we arrived in our hotel (well, smotel (smelly hotel)) in Dushanbe (capital of Tatjikistan). Carlos and I share a room (nr. 13).
Getting my washing powder from the truck, coz after these two nights... 11 bush camps in a row....
Now shower and then a Burger King's Whopper. Yeeeee.

The Burger King became a local little outside restaurant (owners: Turka and Tulja). Food was good and cheap and people friendly. But at the exchange office they tried to rip me off (30 euro for 101 somino in stead of 201 somino). Had to get angry to get the last 100, but in the end i got it. The guy even played to be insulted. Anyway, Tony, Marian and I had a good meal. Later another drink with Dave (UK) and Dennis (Falklands) to finish the day.

Back in the hotel, finally got a wifi connection, so left a small message to say i'm OK.
Good sleep.


14/8

Woke up at 7.30. No breakfast i guess. Updating log in bed now, while traffic starts up in town. Going to explore Dusbane. Laterz.
Had a nice breakfast with Marianne, followed by a visit of a bazaar, where I managed to buy warm socks (!) and a new flash light. We're going up, so it will be cold. Right now that sounds like music to my ears actually.
At 10.30 left for the center of town. Walking. Took 1,5 hours to get there, 2 hours to explore the center and 1,5 hours back. Exhausted. Had a beer with Tony and then... good bye diner: Ellen will leave us tomorrow, so... back to the center of town by cab, indian food and back. Very expensive and everything took ages. (before all people had arrived, before dinner was ordered, before we had payed (after a re-, re-, re- recalculation)). And since i was so tired already it pissed me off that it all took so unnecessary long. Anyway, back at the hotel now. Getting some sleep. Really need it.
Just a check on my FB page (wifi is back).


15/8

Had a good night sleep, but... diahrea again (getting fed up with that). Had breakfast on my own in the same place as yesterday. Packed, said good bye to Ellen (she's going back to Dubai, where she lives and works), and on the truck again. Had to stop the traffic to get the truck of the hotel area.

<Aussie Allisons pic to add>

Now on the road again. It's a cloudy day, which makes the temperatrure very pleasant. 24 celcius. Great. Laterz.

It was a though, thouhg, very bumpy, long, long drive through the Pamir  mountains (better: the Wahkan valley) of Turkmenistan. Everybody was exhausted. Had to fill up the wateretanks, bucket by bucket from a well, we found on the way.
Bush camped on a dry river bed.

Slept like a log from 10 to 5.30.
Oh yeah, Marianne got quit sick. Hope she gets better soon. Pity her.


16/8

Woke up 5.30, breakfast, and another bumpy day of 200 KM of bad road ahead of us. Must reach the Pamir Highway, where 4 more days of bumpy rides await us. Laterz.
13.30. The drive was scarey as hell again. Still the scenery was stunning.
Just had lunch in a small village at the beginning of the Pemir mountains.

Found a small beach, where two rivers merge. Blue colored water merges with brown(ish) water. Strange view.

The trip in the afternoon was long, scarey and bumpy again. It went along the <find out> river, that forms the border between Tajikistan and Afghanistan. So, saw Afghanistan, but never set foot on it.

At the end of the afternoon there was a truck jam at one of the passes. Did bushcamp near a dry river again in the desert. Had a nice dinner, sang a few songs with Kate (don't worry, i just played the guitar), went to bed just after 9 PM, so i could...

Week 7 (Uzbekistan)

3/8

Rose at 5, breakfast and on the road for a long drive at 6.
Laterz.
Crossed the border to Uzbekistan at 14.00h. Took 3 hours and lots of forms to fill out. The same form, 6 times. Burocrazy. Then for the last part of the drive to Khiva. The first thing the catches the eye is that it's green again. No more desert as in Tukmenistan. Arrived at this beautiful hotel at 7. Really, really nice hotel. Clean, very eastern (not trying to copy the western style, but authentic), good rate for money exchange, friendly staff, etc. Love it here.

Went on line (after a long time) and found out that a friend had past away. I know she was sick (C of course), but still, it came as a shock. R.I.P. Mieke. I'm glad i have known you.

Then shower, a beer and some food at a local restaurant. Man, what a nice city this is.

Came back at 11 and slept like a log. Even skipped the invitation for a last sleep cap.


4/8

Rose at 7.45, the best breakfast in years followed. Man what a great hotel this is.
Now  paying some bills (thanks for sending them Kars), and updating blog, administration etc.
Later a long stroll through this beautifull little city. Love Uzbekistan!

Well, the long stroll wasn't that long. Just a cup of (far to expensive, rip off-ish) coffee and a 2 hour nap. Then diner with Marian which was very nice (again). Met some very kind locals,  that offered us wodka, beef and a conversation in which the admiration for Holland was expresssed extensively. Long stroll on the outside of the old city brought us back in our hotel, where i finally got enough wifi signal to finish all updating stuff. Listening to my own music on my laptop gave me a homesick feeling.
Anyway, the rest came to the hotel too, drank another one, chatted and went to sleep. tomorrow 8: on the road again. Laterz...


5/8

Rose at 7. Breakfast (the hotel serves  a great one) and ... err ... diahrea. On the road now to Bukhara.

The desert is back...

14.00h, being ripped off at the only restaurant in the Uzbekistan desert. What an assholes. I hope the place burns down, grrrr.
18.30h, arrived in Bukhara. First impression: cosy, but very touristic. Share a room with Carlos, Kate and Marian. Just had an ice cream. Now a beer and updating blog. Laterz...

The beers became two, three, etc... and there were guitars and a bar to play guitar in... Anyway, it was a fun night, but my head says "ouch" now.


6/8

Woke up, hungover, breakfast with Hans (a dutch tour operator we met here; nice bloke), showered and washed clothes. Updating blog.
Went for a stroll, but did not find that much interesting stuff.
Then the heat begun. It's over 40 C. Too much to handle. Slept and read. End of the afternoon for a 2nd stroll.
2nd stroll brought me to the bazaar and some great mosques/minaret-like buildings.
Had dinner with Kate and Marian, in a very nice restaurant, recommended by the Lonely Planet. Great food and affordable.
Played some guitar in the garden of the hotel afterwards, one beer accross the street and updating blog now.
Laterz.


7/8

Slept like a log for more than 9 hours straight. Woke up at 8, breakfast, said goodbye to Hans and off we are again. To Samarkand. Laterz...
Arrived at the nicest hotel so far (= clean toilets, kitchen to be used, airco, small swimming pool, even tv). Had 3 beers with the lads, met this new fellow traveller (Anton, Germany, nice bloke), tried to find a nice restaurant, but ended up, buying a loaf of breaf, eggs and tomatoes, together with Marian and so... make an omlet, which tasted nice. A last beer and a nice conversation with Brenda on these comfortable, seats/couches ended the day. Slept like a log (only to be woken up by Will and Alley, who came back at 4 am).


8/8

Woke up at 8, great breakfast, chatted on FB with Maria and then a long stroll with Anton to the big mosque and the local markets, which was great fun. Also bought a new pair of lippers, since i completely walked out the old ones (think the took me a couple of 100 km's).
Now updating blog. Laterz...
Later that afternoon a long stroll through the parks at the end of the main road. Nice, but not spectecular. Did FB stuff, took a swim in the hotels little pool, showered, made myself some fried eggs and tomatoes, a last beer and an early night. Fell asleep late though. Too much on my mind, but no worries...


9/8

Rose at 7.15. Diahrea for a change... yeeee... took the necessary medicines, breakfasted, put my stuff on the truck and now... on the road again...
Round 11, we hasd to replace a part of the suspension of the truck. Took almost 2 hours, but... very hostipable people and a very nice early lunch made it all up. On we drove, untill we got lost. It was hot and there was no wind, so some extra stops for cold drinks and ice cream (and get rid of our last Uzekistan Soms). All in all, we didn't make it to the border, so we bushcamped in Uzbekistan. James and I plyed one of my compositions on guitar, we had spaghetti and an early night with a decent sleep, despite the flat air mat.

Sorry for the lack of pictures.

Week 6 (Azerbeyan and Turkmenistan)

7/27

Rose at 7.15, packed and found out that breakfast was already gone. So, some of us did not have it. That irritated me and it still does. Some of us only seem to think of their selves. Yes the little irritastions have started.
On our way to Sechi, to take a look around. Met some very nice Azerbeyan people, who asked me about the trip .. spend about 40 mins there and it ended up that they paid my pot(!) of coffee, since i was a guest. Now, that's hospitable init? Then to Baki... we thought.

Well, never made it to Baki. A rough drive through a sand and dust storm followed, which cost me my towel and my pretty face... Keeping the windows of the truck open was no option. Temperature would rise to over 50, so..

To the muddy vulcano's in stead, where we had bush camp as well.

Had to make dinner in the dark... was ok though.

7/28

Rose at 6.45, breakfast, tent almost blew away, on the road to Baki now.
Arrived here around 10.30, spoke to the customs guys, we have to wait for a couple of hours, which gave us the opportunity to see Baki. Very modern city. Transformed from a grey communist city 5 years ago into a modern "New Dubai". Managed to get some US$ and to spend almost all my last Manats (Azarbeyan's currency). Waiting to go on the ferry now. PS: Jill has returned, Jean hasn't (yet).

Everybody is there now (accept chas of course). Still waiting for the ferry to hop on. Can be tonight, can be 5 more days, or anyting in between. Meanwhile waiting ... beer in 2L bottles was passing around, and errr.. well, need I tell more. Dave and Canadian Allyson were able to cook, so.. got our bellies full. Now.... still waiting for the ferry to hop on and then a 20 hour sea trip. Lets hope i talk to you again from the other side of the Caspean sea, Turkmenistan to be preciese.

And what do you do when you have to wait for hours and hours? Exactly, you take a beer. And another one. And so did everybody else... result: at 2 am (next day) we checked in. A bit tipsy. Still we managed to get on board of the ferry, where i fel asleep immediately, waking up at full sea (lake actually).


7/29

Woke up at 7, did a walk around the ship, to find out that everybody else was still asleep. Slept for two more hours then.
Then breakfast, books, puzzles chats and 2 hours extra sleep, since we might not get any that same night.

6 pm, arrived at the coast of Turkmenistan, but... not allowed in the port yet and so we had to wait 100 meters out of the coast.
Price of water and food raised immediately, since we all had run out of the basics.


7/30

Still went to sleep at 10, to be woken up at two, so the waiting to cross the border had begun.
4 pm, went ashore, 5.30, went through customs, 6.30 all our lugage was checked, 7.30 everything was packed again. Ok, so we did it in 5 hours and that's not too bad. Still some checks to go though and Will (our driver) hasn't returned yet. So... the waiting continues.
Keep you posted. laterz.

8.30 on the road again. A long, long day through the desert of Turkmenistan followed.

Found a bush camping spot near an underground lake, which we will visit later. Neil put up his telescope (really dark, no moon, no clouds) and we saw some astonishing views of nebulae and star clusters. The sky itself was breath taking too. During the night however, my airmat went leak. That's a bit of a let down. Will have to do some reparations later on in the hotel, where we will (hopefully) go tonight (and tomorrow night... yeeee).


7/31

Ok, first find the underground (sulfide) lake now... it's 8 am, 1 hour earlier than planned (due to the heat).

<Aussie Allisons pics here>

The swim was special. Not too spectecular though.

Drove on to a beautiful mosque; the visit really moved me. Can not explain why, but it did.

All in all Turkmenistan was left a good first impression on me. Especially, the kindness of the people. We're in a hotel in Ascabat (capital of T). Share a room with Carlos. Did my laundry, strolled a little in the environment, did some shopping. Now try to find the leak in my airmat. Too many sharp objects on last night's camp ground.
Laterz.

Had diner with Marian (UK) for far too much money (almost 15 US$) and beer with Carlos on the balcony of our hotel.

PS: Yasasyn = Welcome and Watanym = Witvoet... ;-)


1/8

Woke up at 7, did some stuff (forgot what) and fell asleep again.
Laundry, find the leak in my air mat (and try to repair it. Hopefully it goes well now). On my way to a hotel with Wifi, so i can write a email to my uncle, who has his 89th birthday today. I have been out of the wifi-ed world for more than a week...

The wifi-ed hotel is expensive, but incredibly luxury... Unfortunately.. pictures not allowed, but i will try to start my webcam and make one... see how it goes.
Jill managed to make some i-phone pics:

And nobody is in there. Turkmenistan is such a weird country. Old school communisme on one hand and the most extravagant luxury on the other hand.

And Marian and I made a selfie... Having a laugh Marian?

After the wifi-ed, but no FB/blogger hotel Marian and I went back by taxi, had a great brunch at the restaurant next door.
Tried to repair my air mat further, but... it had like a dozen holes, so... better buy a new one (but where?).
Did a little sleep, read some, did a log stroll and ate bounties and softdrinks, back to the hotel and read some more. Last stroll with Carlos and Marian through the park, where we had ice cream. Now a beer with Carlos on the balcony. Laterz.


2/8

Rose at 7.30. We all cleaned the truck. Changed the remaining T manats back to US$, had a coffee and on the road again, through the heat of the Turkmenistan desert. Goodbye Asgabat, the strangest town i have ever seen. Google images of it. The palace like buildings you will find are really representative for the city. However, you don't find any people who are using the buildings. Just like the extremely luxurious hotel yesterday. We were the only ones there!

Anyway, a long drive to the so called gas crater...

We bush camped close to it. Did some guitar playing to get my thoughts together (bit annoyed by somebody... never mind, perhaps it's just me).

Laterzzzz....